Bali & Covid

Bali. A tropical paradise. Just south of the equator, it’s a backpacker haven, and full of digital nomads.

Yet it’s symbolic of so much more.

I just spent a week in Bali, Indonesia. My first time in the country, and my third time south of the equator. What a fun week! Bali may be one of the most touristy places in Southeast Asia, but it is for good reason.

Before talking about my experience, let’s talk about Indonesia first. Indonesia is a MASSIVE country. Not just in size, but in population too. I believe it’s one of the top four largest countries in the world by population (just ahead of the US?) and the country is made up of approximately 18,307 islands. That’s a lot of islands. Indonesia extends 5,120 kilometers (3,181 miles) from east to west, which is about the same size as the United States. In terms of size, it may not be that big from north to south, but you certainly can’t overlook the distance from one side to the other! Given its population, Indonesia is the largest Muslim country in the world; approximately 85% of the country observes the religion. However, Bali, where most tourists go, is predominantly Hindu. Bali is also said to be the most developed place in the country.

In Indonesia, the local language is called Bahasa Indonesia, and it sounds quite similar to Malay. I think it would be a nice language to pick up, it’s not a super difficult language tonal-wise like other countries in the region. I certainly want to come back to the country and explore more, but I feel like if you spent 6 months in the country you would still only see a tiny part. There’s just so much to see from Sumatra to West Papua and everything in between.

While in Bali, I split my time between Ubud and Uluwatu. If you’re unfamiliar with the island, Ubud is located in the central part of the island, and it kinda feels like it’s in the jungle. Uluwatu is in the south, and there you can find some nice beaches with very blue water. For my first visit, I think I made a good choice in choosing where to go.

After arriving at Ngurah Rai International Airport, the drive to Ubud took a little more than an hour, but it felt much longer. The distance is only 37 kilometers (22 miles) which wouldn’t take long on the interstate. But that doesn’t exist in Bali. The island is home to more than 4 million people (and it’s actually quite a big island) but all of the roads are only 2 lanes - one in each direction! Patience is key. Oh, and they drive on the left side of the road in Indonesia.

Fortunately, my time in Ubud was well spent. I rented a motorbike for about 60,000 Indonesian Rupiah/day (about $4.40 USD) and saw quite a few waterfalls. The amazing thing about central Bali, and the island in general is it just feels so green and lush. The island has a great vibe, in some spots it feels quite commercial (more on that later) but after driving for 10 minutes you can be sailing past palm trees and green rice fields, minutes away from waterfalls. Bali also has three mountains, at least one of which- Mount Agung- is an active volcano (last year the airport shut down and evacuations occurred in some parts of the island because of fears the volcano may erupt). The mountains can be seen from Ubud, and the rice fields look really cool with a mountain backdrop. As a result of the mountainous terrain, the island is quite hilly in some places, so there are lots of ups and downs on the road and lots of curves.

In Ubud I took advantage of being near some really nice waterfalls, and rice terraces. There’s a lot of nature. The most famous rice field, the Tegallalang Rice Terrace, is huge and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

I also saw some really nice Hindu temples, and went to the well-known Monkey Forest! Let me just say that I’ve always liked monkeys, I think they’re quite smart if not devious, and watching what they’re capable of as animals is amazing. But after my encounter with a couple of monkeys at the monkey forest, I think I’ll be a little reluctant to approach monkeys in the future.

*Be careful of the monkeys at Monkey Forest*

Apparently, when you look a monkey directly in the eye, they interpret that as a sign of aggression. I made that mistake not once, but twice, and a monkey ran at me! Should you encounter a monkey, take my advice so you don’t get chased by a monkey...

I should also mention the weather. It’s very hot! I’m pretty acclimated to the temperature in Southeast Asia, but Indonesia straddles the equator, where the weather feels a lot warmer and a lot more humid. The weather can also change pretty fast. It can be rainy and then 30 minutes later be clear and hot and sunny. Fortunately, during my visit the weather was great, and nice and hot!

Uluwatu was also nice. It took almost 2 hours to drive from Ubud to Uluwatu in the southwest. Compared to Ubud, Uluwatu felt less developed. Part of that I would guess can be attributed to the location, because it’s quite hilly and most of the hotels/restaurants are on cliffs overlooking the ocean. The water is very blue and quite warm. In some areas the beaches are busy, but in other places, you can find quieter beaches. The beaches are very nice. Uluwatu is also a good surfing spot, but not a good place to learn. The waves seem a bit rough but if you’re an experienced surfer then it’s the place to be!

Bali is well known for its hospitality, and it would be a disservice not to mention it. The people in Bali are so friendly, so kind and so welcoming. And the English level of the locals is quite high. But this would be a good time to mention that there is a good reason for that, and that’s why I said Bali is symbolic of much more. Bali has been a tourist hotspot for the last 20 years. Many Westerners have moved to Bali to run their businesses or work remotely from their laptop. In a country where the native language is not English, all of the locals in Bali speak it well (and this is true of any place that sees a lot of tourists). Why? Because of tourism and money.

In a way, I feel like Bali has lost its cultural touch. It feels like most of the signs are in English, and there are very few local food options. You can find many Western food options, and to my disappointment, I saw a Dairy Queen for the first time in Asia. If you want high-quality food, it’s widely available, there are many options and it’s all for a very reasonable price. A bit higher than you’d find in other countries in the region, but in Bali it really does feel in a way like high-end dining. And I think that goes hand in hand with the hospitality. Personally, my favorite food was the smoothie bowls. It’s a smoothie base with granola and fresh fruit on top. Perfect in tropical climates and it really fits the island vibe. Not a good example of high-end dining but I also had some really really good pizza!

Usually, I prefer to have a local experience. If someone were to travel from the US to Indonesia, would they travel all the way there just to have Starbucks or McDonalds, which you can find everywhere in the US? Is that really what that person came for? In all the places I’ve been, 95% of the time I chose the local option, with one exception being in airports (I like Starbucks on travel days!). However, in Bali, where the increased tourism has likely caused the island to lose its cultural touch, you can find many Western food options and it just feels nice. Not for the reason that the island has lost its culture. But for the fact that there are many good options, which feel high end, and there is a lot of variety, and it’s all delicious and it’s all affordable, on a tropical island. Overall it’s interesting to analyze how increased tourism has affected the local culture. It’s not unique, but still, the situation in Bali feels uniquely nice. In my perspective, it feels fitting.

And now to address the coronavirus, the disease that is causing a disaster for Vietnam’s airline industry. I have received messages from several people who have reached out with concern. In Vietnam, where I am now, all universities and schools throughout the country have been closed this week and last week due to the virus. Masks are 4x the price and are difficult to find. Everyone is concerned and afraid of the Chinese. Anyone who enters Vietnam from China or anyone who has visited recently is quarantined. The US has instituted the same policy at its border.

While I am concerned, I am not worried. There are less than 2 dozen cases in a country of 90+ million people. Statistically, I have a low chance of getting infected. Those traveling from China have been quarantined. Vietnam has the capability to fight the virus - in fact, several people have already recovered at Vietnamese hospitals and have been released. The biggest thing you can do to stay healthy is follow normal precautions to stay healthy, mainly by washing your hands and staying away from other people who are sick. And that’s exactly what I’m doing and I feel fine.

Zach

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